Writers Chock-A-Block

Hello again, Blogonauts!

Welcome back! You're joining me now in Edinburgh, where after red-eyeing across the Atlantic, my meanderings around Scotland commenced yesterday.

Let's begin this first entry with a quote from David Hume about one of Scotland's biggest "exports":

"Is it not strange that at a time when we have lost our Princes, our Parliaments, our independent Government...that we shou'd really be the People distinguish'd for Literature in Europe?"

He spoke of the relegation of Scottish sovereignty when it joined with England to form the United Kingdom in 1707. But as he rightly noted and predicted, this loss of political power was replaced by a glowing constellation of celebrated Scottish thinkers and authors. Included among them are Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott, Adam Smith, Robert Louis Stevenson, and Arthur Conan Doyle (educated in Edinburgh).

Sir Walter Scott Monument

And just to remind us of their intellectual might, Edinburgh is stuffed with statuary that honors not only the expected monarchs and military masterminds, but also some Scotland's celebrated wordsmiths.

I mean, just look at that monument built to Sir Walter Scott! It's 200 feet tall!

But let me back up.

Today's mission was to wander along Edinburgh's most famous thoroughfare, The Royal Mile. This geologic spine runs between the two royal residences, the Edinburgh Castle and Holyrood Palace.

And yes, it is a mile-long road, one that is nowadays filled with shops hawking tartans, whisky, and refrigerator magnets. But branching off every few yards are various courtyards, multi-story staircases, and "closes" (gated alleyways and gardens).

 

I started from the top: the parade ground outside the castle. (We'll leave the castle for now, since my tour is scheduled for later in the week.)

Edinburgh Castle

Just down the hill is a small plaque to commemorate the more than 4000 women (and some men) executed in Scotland for witchcraft. It marks the spot where many of the accused were burned at the stake

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But soon I found my way to Lady Stair's Close, and through that gate, the Writers' Museum. This centuries-old house, filled with small galleries, interior balconies, and winding staircases, holds within it relics and stories about the lives and works of Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott, and Robert Louis Stevenson.

 

The Writers' Museum

Now moving along the Royal Mile, we reach St. Giles Church. Scottish and English people have a shared (and sometimes divisive) history. And as with many European conflicts, the disagreements often involved religion.

Here in St. Giles, the Scottish form of Protestantism, widely known as Presbyterianism, took its shape, following the fiery preaching of John Knox. (Presbyterianism is not a theology, but a form of church governance, more in line with democracy than monarchy. Any idea why some scholars think this ecclesiastical change may have fueled the American Revolution?)

John Knox Statue in St. Giles Church

While both England and Scotland were casting off religion dictated from Rome, they didn't at all see eye-to-eye on how to replace Catholicism. Europe was simultaneously engaging in the faith-infused Thirty Years War. Internally England's own civil wars over regal, parliamentary, and ecclesiastical power led to wars also with Scotland. It wasn't safe for Scottish Christians or witches during those days!

Volumes have been written about that history But as a humorous footnote, the old cemetery outside of St. Giles Church has been turned into a parking lot, and beneath space no. 23, you can find the grave of John Knox.

It reads, "The above stone marks the approximate site of the burial of John Knox, the great Scottish divine who died 24 Nov 1572"

 

Before I've gone on too long ("Too late!" I hear you bellowing), let's jog on to the end of the Royal Mile. There you can find a pair of palaces: One of royal power, and one of democracy.

First, there is King Charles & Camilla's royal residence in Scotland, Holyrood Palace. (Balmoral Castle is privately owned by the Royal family, and as such is not an official residence.) Holyrood was open for tours today, but they wanted a king's ransom as an entry fee, so I gave it a pass.

Holyrood Palace

 

The second monument to power is the relatively new Scottish Parliament Building. It has been a bit controversial, but it was constructed after, for the first time since 1707, Scotland asked for and in 1997 was allowed some limited self-rule. Personally, I think it looks too much like a bunker, but its meaning exceeds its aesthetic appeal.

So... before I go, let me offer a final photo from the Royal Mile. As I said, this historic thoroughfare is now sloshing with schlock. But in one souvenir shop window, a particular depiction of a Highland Cow caught my eye. It's how I imagine a literary cow might read some of those Scottish authors.

(Consider that a bit of dessert after a heavy meal of history.)

If you care to leave a comment, please indicate who you are. Otherwise my mind wanders into wild fantasies about who's reading this stuff.

Blog to you later!