Bergamo: Bulwarks, Embellishments, and Burros

Hello again, Blogonauts.

Bergamo is majestic, both inside and out. So let's take a look at this kaleidoscope!

On Thursday, my itinerary took me away from Verona, and brought me an hour or so west, to the "duopolis" of Bergamo. I have dubbed it so, because two town centers exist in Bergamo, each less than a mile apart from the other (as the crow flies, and this time flying would be an advantage).

Bergamo's more modern section, known as Città Bassa, is where my train arrived and my lodging is located. It is plopped flatly on the flatlands of Lombardy south of the Alps. And it has a nice urban center and sophisticated feel. Indeed, it has been an industrial and educational center for a couple of centuries.

But on a steep, rocky hill towering above is the Città Alta (Upper City), where Bergamo's wealth and power first took root more than 2000 years ago. And surrounding that part of the city is an imposing wall, making the entire upper city seem like a fortress...which, in fact, it was.

Città Alta, seen from Città Bassa

Of course the most compelling part of the city lies up, on the hilltop, so that's where I set my sights. But I sometimes get distracted. (Squirrel!) Because Bergamo has produced (and attracted) several well known and productive artists, along my way I stopped at the city's art museum. 

The primary collection includes paintings by Lorenzo Lotto, who spent a dozen years in Bergamo during the early 16th century, as well as some works by Titian. There was a special exhibition of an oddly named painter, "Cecco del Caravaggio." The name comes from his clear adherence to the dramatic and colorful styles of Caravaggio. Indeed, the speculation is that he was a student of the troubled master. Cecco's real identity was in doubt for quite, but consensus seems to have concluded that it was likely a poorly documented painter named Francesco Boneri.

It's hard not to engage with Caravaggio's paintings, and this was no less the case with Cecco's.

Cecco's "St. Lawrence"

So, after ogling the art, I redirected myself and trudged the rest of the way up the hill. And once there, it was the perfect time to amble along a good portion of the pathway atop the city wall. 

 

When I eventually found my way to the center of the upper city, it was after 7 PM, and the only  businesses still open were fooderies of various kinds. Time to grab a bite (see below) before making my way back to my lodging!

On Saturday I had more time to explore the upper city in earnest. There was after all, something within that bulwark that was worthy of its protection.

Bergamo has endured the misfortune of acting as a pawn for a variety of ruling powers over the centuries: from Milan, to Venice, to the Hapsburgs, to Napoleon, etc. The results can be seen in some of the architecture. But most of the walls were constructed by the Venetians, and so St. Mark's winged lion figures prominently.

The old central square, though, in spite of its storm-tossed past, is none the worse for wear.

As is true everywhere in Italy, the church has it's own encampment nearby. These include the Cathedral and the Baptistery.

 

Bergamo's Baptistery

Interior of the Cathedral

This complex buildings is fairly complex, and their entrances are only a few paces from one another. Yet one stands out as one of the most floridly decorated sanctuaries I have ever seen: The Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore. So here's a first...I took a video:

Pretty impressive, huh?

Behind the high altar in the Basilica are several pictures made form inlaid wood. These were drawn by Lotto (remember him from the museum) and installed in the early 16th century. Restoration work is underway on all the woodwork and carvings in the presbytery (the area surrounding the altar).

 

Tourists were booted from the basilica while they celebrated a mass, so I wandered back over to the wall to calculate my next move. A man on a bicycle pulled up and yelled out a couple of words. Down the hill about 200 meters, I saw a burro, grazing. The donkey didn't seem to pay the man any mind.

But then about 5 minutes passed, and the man stopped by again and pointed over the fence. Up along top of the wall came not one but two burros. I guess they only acted like they hadn't paid attention. Smart asses!

In addition to the stunning visual art found in Bergamo, it also has made contributions to music. The opera composer Gaitano Donizetti was born here and was enrolled to study music and sing in the choir at the Basilica. That's where he is now buried. He is truly a favorite son. Both the opera house and a nearby park in the lower city are dedicated to him. Posters there announced a Donizetti opera festival this year.

Donizetti's Grave in the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore

The Donizetti Theater

The monument in Donizetti Park

Finally (as usual) I leave you with an visual amuse-bouche. This time, it was an octopus salad that I ate on Thursday evening in the upper city.

 

 

 

Octopus Salad

 
Bergamo was a shorter visit. On Saturday, the train takes me to my final destination on this Italian holiday: Milan.

Blog to you later!